GETTING STARTED

So your new bitless bridle has arrived in the mail, congratulations! You’ll probably find your friends think you’re crazy for going bitless, but don’t worry, someone has to lead us all forward toward a kinder world and thank you for being one of those people. You’ll probably find that if you just smile and go about your business they’ll start being inquisitive and asking questions and when they see your results might even go bitless too!

STEP 1: FITTING THE BRIDLE
The first thing you’re likely to find is that your bitless bridle seems like a three dimensional jigsaw puzzle, but you’ll soon get used to it. Attach your reins to the rings at the ends of the cross-under straps. The only part of the bridle that you ever undo is the noseband. At first people automatically go to undo the throatlatch (especially when removing the bridle) but resist this impulse as it can be a  puzzle when you’re not used to it and accidentally take the bridle apart. Just wiggle the cross-under straps so they’re a little loose then hold the bridle up to the horses head slipping their nose in in front of the cross-under straps and below the noseband. Pop it behind the ears and make sure the side straps are back away from the eyes.

Showing how the straps cross behind the jaw.

Showing how the straps cross behind the jaw.

 

 

Adjusting the bridle.

Adjusting the bridle.

Next adjust the height of the noseband using the 2 cheek straps. You want the noseband to sit around 2 cm above the mouth. The noseband shouldn’t be too low or it will put pressure on the cartilage at the end of the nose instead of the bone. However, if the noseband is too high the level of your control may be reduced. Ultimately it depends on the horse. I find every horse is slightly different in the position they like the bridle to sit. When starting a new horse in a bitless I make minor changes in positioning for the first few rides and then suddenly, bingo, I know I’ve got it in the right spot for that horse (they’re relaxed AND responsive).

Showing the position of the noseband in relation to the mouth.

Showing the position of the noseband in relation to the mouth.

Next you need to do up the noseband buckle. As this bridle communicates with the horse via pressure/release, the noseband needs to NOT be applying pressure of its own accord. This means we do it up a lot looser than nosebands are traditionally done up on bitted bridles. With a bitted bridle the noseband is being used to hold the jaw and mouth shut (as the horse opens the mouth to try and evade the pain of the bit). With a bitless bridle the noseband is a form of communication. If the noseband is extremely loose however it will ride up the horses head when pressure is applied the reins and the cheek pieces will buckle out. So once again we’re looking for that happy medium. Again don’t worry about getting it perfect the first time, just be willing to play around and adjust it as you go along and develop a feel for your new bridle. If your horse tosses their head then the noseband is too tight.

At this stage you may want to play with the bridle to become familiar with where the horse will feel pressure. You can apply pressure to 1 rein and try putting a finger behind the jaw, at the opposite side of the head on the cheek, at the poll and under the noseband to feel the relative pressures that are applied to the whole of the horses head.This is a fun exercise and helps you understand the mechanisms at work with the bitless head-hug bridle. The design ensures that applied pressure is distributed as much as possible over the horses whole head, rather than in 1 or 2 places, making it much more humane and much more effective.

So now we’re ready to introduce your horse to the feel of the bridle. Remember this is a new piece of equipment and when introducing new equipment to a horse it’s always best to do some training in it first (just like your horse was trained when it was first taught about the bit). A progressive approach of training your horse from the ground, then from the saddle in a confined area and then free open riding in a large area will make the transition a happy experience for you both.

 

STEP 2: GROUNDWORK
These exercises may take days or weeks to complete, depending on you, your horse and whatever previous training has been done. It’s not a race and it really doesn’t matter how long it takes as long as you both enjoy the process and are seeing even minor improvements in response each time you train. Remember not to go on and on with one exercise, change what you’re doing whenever there’s an improvement and always finish on a good note before the horse is tired and having trouble concentrating. At any time when working with your horse if things get a bit much for you (especially if you’re becoming emotional) or your horse is becoming anxious take a break and have a cuppa or just stand gently stroking your horses neck until the energy is clear again.

Standing beside the horse and with the reins over the head and resting on the neck, apply a rhythmical pressure (never pull) to one rein asking the horse to flex the head and neck. As soon as the horse shows signs of giving relax your pressure then ask again for a little more. If you’ve done this type of work in a halter you will find it easy but it’s still worth doing to let your horse accustom to the new sensations of the bridle on their head. When you feel your horse has relaxed and given to the pressure change sides. It’s not a good idea to relentlessly ask a horse to do something over and over. Once they have shown signs of improvement reward and change sides or move on to a new exercise.

Flexing away.

Flexing away.

Now ask your horse to drop the head toward the ground holding both reins in your hand and again using the rhythmical pressure. If this is a new exercise for your horse be happy with a little give and move on. You will find when you do it again the next time the give will be bigger, and on and on. Don’t try and train the whole response in one go, horses learn in increments, improving a little each time you do the exercise.

Holding both reins again apply a rhythmical pressure backwards to ask for a rein-back. If your horse doesn’t respond within a few seconds back up your rein pressure with some thumb pressure to the chest. Release both pressures as soon as the horse reverses. Be happy with 1 or 2 steps at first, you can always increase the number later. Repeat this a few times and your horse should start reversing just with the rein pressure.

Now take the reins over the head and lead your horse around. Do some changes of direction, halt and go, halt and reverse and generally just walk around giving directions to your horse. By now the bridle will be starting to feel more familiar on the horses head.

Then take the reins back over the horses head and standing beside the horses shoulder take 1 rein in each hand (if your horse is too big for you to reach the off-side rein when you’re walking just turn in 1 direction, toward you, then change sides to work the other way OR have the rein coming over the neck and apply pressure to both reins from the 1 side). Click your tongue or use whatever verbal commands you usually use to ask the horse to move forward (if your horse doesn’t respond you may want to teach verbal commands on the lunge as it comes in very handy). If you’re having trouble getting your horse to move a second person can assist or you can bump the horse on the side where the leg normally asks for forward. Walking beside the horse ask for left and right turns and halt and reinback. This position applies the rein aids with a very similar feel to when you’ll be riding. For people experienced in long-reining you could now do this. For those not experienced in long-reining I wouldn’t recommend it as unless done expertly it can be difficult and create problems for both you and your horse.

 

STEP 3: RIDING
It’s usually a good idea to do a few sessions of ground-work in the bitless before riding. This is where your ability to read your horse and know when they’re ready comes in. What you’re looking for is a horse that clearly understands what you’re asking while remaining calm and responsive.

The first time riding in the bitless I recommend being in a small yard. If you usually do liberty circles or lunge before riding do so, then run through a few of the groundwork yields described above. Mount your horse (asking for them to stand still) then just sit there a moment so the horse realises they don’t have to go anywhere. Take up rein contact on one side and ask for the head/neck flexion. Repeat to the other side. Take up contact on both reins and ask for a few steps forward with your legs. Ask for a halt and remain there a few seconds. Ask for walk then halt then reinback. Ask for walk then turn gently in one direction, repeat to the other side. If your horse doesn’t respond at first use an open rein (take the hand out side-ways away from the horse) but make sure you stay centered in the saddle. Continue mixing up go, stop, turn, reinback while remaining in the walk. Every now and then just halt and sit (park is a wonderful gear to have in a horse) and allow your horse to digest the new information.On the first ride I would recommend only walking.

Flexing the horse when mounted.

Flexing the horse when mounted.

After a few rides in walk when you are feeling confident ask for the trot. Just trot for a short distance, then walk, then trot, then walk etc. to ensure your brakes are working. Gradually build up to canter and gallop and before you know it you’ll be riding a cross-country course in your bitless! After a while most people will be riding along and suddenly realise they’re bitless after completely forgetting about it because their horse is responding so well to the bridle.

If you don’t feel confident to go through the above steps, just pop the bitless bridle on 1st then put your bitted bridle on over the top. You’ll then have 2 sets of reins. If you get worried at any time you can pick up the reins to the bitted bridle if that helps you relax. This can be a very easy way to transition for people who are a little nervous when making changes.

 

Once you make the transition to bitless you’ll never look back. It changes something about riding horses. You feel better about yourself as you know you’re no longer causing pain and your horse definitely feels better about you – for the same reason. It opens up a line of communication between you and your horse that is priceless. And the best thing of all is that anyone can have this. You don’t have to be a professional trainer or horse whisperer to ride in a bitless and feel this amazing communication with your horse. Anyone who wants it can have it today. Happy Horsing.

8 Responses to GETTING STARTED

  1. Lyn Parkinson says:

    That was a the best site I have read, it explains everything you need to know about how to fit and how the bridle actually works. – I will look into one for my pony, thanks Lyn.

    • Dear Lyn thankyou so much for your comments I try really hard to tailor the information on my site to what peoples questions are. Sounds like I might be getting it! Also awesome that you’re going bitless with your pony! All the best, Suzy ☺ 🐎 💜

  2. Very great post. I just stumbled upon your weblog and wanted to say that I have really loved browsing your blog posts.
    After all I’ll be subscribing on your feed and I hope you
    write again very soon!

  3. Angie says:

    This is awesome information, thank you so much, I have a very strong TB has been off the track for 5 years but has been ridden hard so doesnt know how to be softly ridden

  4. Gloria English says:

    Loved this article. Plan to purchase both your bitless bridle and the reins when I can save enough money.

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